Maine’s Washington County is the place where the term Downeast becomes less of a myth and more of a reality. Towns like Cutler, Jonesport, and Lubec sit perched on the bold cliffs over the rough waters of the Atlantic. The lobster boats outnumber pleasure craft, and the working man outnumbers the tourist.
I am drawn to this place because of its natural and untouched beauty, but also because of the immense solitude that hangs over the towns and landscape, like a thick fog off the ocean. Drive down a back road out of Machias, and you are greeted with the sight of humble houses, mom-and-pop stores, and lobster gear strewn over lawns and driveways.
There is a little town called Buck’s Harbor about two miles down the road from Machiasport. There are no signs here that tell you that you’ve reached Buck’s Harbor, just small and dusty dirt road that leads to an inlet, which then leads to a stunning harbor.
The harbor that is protected by rocky islands covered in spruce and pine trees, where osprey and seagulls soar and dip over the water. Lobster boats — big, sturdy, and worn — come and go, back into town to get gear, then back out onto Machias Bay. The air is clear, the sky is wide, and the feeling of solitude is immense.
There is real value in quiet, especially when it comes with a side of salt water.
Photos of Savoring the Quiet Around Machias
